Van Cleef & Arpels amethyst floral earrings from the Hawaii collection

The Color Purple: Modern Amethyst Jewelry

by Hyla Ames Bauer
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The beauty of the violet gemstone shines in designs by Van Cleef & Arpels, Stephen Silver, Brent Neale, David Yurman and Marco Bicego.

Amethyst, a variety of the quartz family and February’s birthstone, possesses a rich purple/violet color. Gem enthusiasts and collectors consider amethyst the most prized and valuable gemstone in the quartz family. They sometimes call it the “Queen of Quartz.” Amethyst’s clarity and high color saturation have made it an ideal stone for jewelry for millennia. The stone can be cut and set in a variety of ways due to its relative hardness of seven on the Mohs scale (at 10, diamonds are the hardest gemstones). 

Like most gemstones, many myths and beliefs are associated with amethysts. People in ancient Greece wore amethyst jewelry because they believed the stone protected against intoxication. Amethyst’s name comes directly from that belief, combining amethystos,meaning not, and methysko, meaning intoxicate. Medieval soldiers believed amethysts gave protection during battle. The color purple is, and has been, associated with royalty for centuries. Amethysts appear prominently in royal jewels, regalia and ceremonial objects.

Contemporary Cuts

Modern amethyst jewelry designs go beyond the traditional cuts and settings. Amethyst is a versatile stone. It can be carved into beads, cut into cabochons and faceted. Jewelers generally set amethyst in yellow gold to highlight its rich hue, but they also set it in white gold or platinum alongside diamonds. Because of its versatility, jewelers can set amethyst in pieces suited for everyday wear as well as high jewelry.

One of a Kind

San Francisco-based and family-operated Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry specializes in bold and rare colored gemstones handcrafted into one-of-a-kind creations. Originally founded in 1980 as a small estate jewelry firm, Stephen Silver “has evolved into an international house encompassing design, manufacturing, wholesale, and retail,” according to the brand. This amethyst bracelet contains 500 carats of cabochon-cut amethysts set in 18-k yellow gold accented with over 1.2 carats of diamonds.

Stephen Silver 500 carat one of a kind amethyst, gold and diamond cuff bracelet.
Ring made of a large round amethyst surrounded by green diamonds set in gold by Brent Neale

Imagination Creation

Brent Neale creates one-of-a-kind and limited-edition designs that celebrate bold color, imaginative storytelling, and unexpected contrasts.. When she founded her company in 2017, Brent Neale Winston “harnessed her love of bold color, fairy tales, art and ’60s and ’70s counterculture into one-of-a-kind designs.” This one-of-a kind Pillow ring features a central amethyst surrounded by a green diamond halo.

Vibrant Vitality

The Van Cleef & Arpels Fleurs d’Hawaï collection is “inspired by the hues of a vibrant garden and features a color palette bursting with vitality,”according to the brand.The Paris-based maison introduced its first Hawaii collection jewelry in 1938, which consisted of “small flowers with varying numbers of petals.” The Fleurs d’Hawaï amethyst earrings are handcrafted like all Van Cleef pieces and feature 7.2 carats of amethysts accented with diamonds set in 18-k yellow gold. 

Van Cleef & Arpels amethyst floral earrings from the Hawaii collection
David Yurman Albion ring in gold with large faceted amethyst surrounded by diamonds

Bold Modernity

New York City-based David Yurman founded his company in 1980. Now a global brand, the house is famous for bold styles and colors featuring colored gemstones. Yurman created his Albion collection to showcase large stones, according to the brand. A “unique cushion-cut center stone was David Yurman’s innovative solution to use an oversize gemstone in a refined modern setting with classical proportions.”

Italian Flair

People consider Vicenza, Marco Bicego’s home base, Italy’s capital of gold. The city’s history of crafting metal dates back centuries, with its local craftsmen among the first to work with bronze. Marco Bicego drew inspiration from Seville’s cobblestone streets when designing the Siviglia collection, including these amethyst and gold earrings. Artisans in Bicego’s atelier use the ancient “Bulino” tool to hand-engrave the gold, resulting in a brushed, silk-like finish.

Marco Bicego Siviglia brushed gold and amethyst drop earrings